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One of the only buildings left standing after the bomb |
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Memorial to the lost children |
Hiroshima was a very
different experience to anywhere else in Japan and it was really
worth visiting. We arrived in the afternoon and headed straight out
to the A-bomb dome, memorial park and peace museum. The first thing
you see in the park is the shell of an old building that was one of
the only things left standing when the Americans dropped the atomic
bomb Enola Gay on Hiroshima on 6
th August 1945. The
Japanese have conserved the bones of the building so you can still
make out its structure. It is absolutely incredible that it stood up
against the blast and the reason given for this is that the atomic
bomb was dropped directly above the building which meant as the blast
radiated outwards, it was able to withstand the pressure. The whole
of the rest of the city was totally flattened and wiped out with the
blast and radiation. As you walk around the park, the next thing you
see is the memorial to the lost children with thousands of origami
cranes hanging in a glass cabinet that have been sent in from all
around the world. Further along, there is a statue with a flame
inside it that represents the desire for the world to be free of
nuclear weapons. The flame was lit by a survivor from the blast who
found a flame in the remains of his uncle's house and carried the
flame to where it stands today. On the memorial, it is written that
the flame will remain lit until every last atomic weapon is gone from
the world.
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A child's charred lunch box |
After the park, we went
to the peace museum, giving ourselves 2 hours to look around until it
closed. We really underestimated the amount of time we would need.
The museum was excellent, with so much detail on Hiroshima, before
and after the bomb was dropped. Some of the exhibits inside included
letters from Einstein to president Roosevelt, letters from the mayor
of Hiroshima to Barak Obama asking him to stop testing nuclear
weapons, models of what Hiroshima looked like before and after the
blast, and a whole section on nuclear weapons today and the potential
threats. The most harrowing part of the museum however, was the
section on the victims, where you could read the stories of people
who had been killed instantly in the blast and of those who had been
killed many years later due to the effects of radiation. Exhibits
included an old lunch box with charred food inside it, people's hair
that had fallen out, and ceramic roof tiles that had melted in the
extreme heat. The most touching story of all, was of a 9 year old
girl who had been 2 years old when the bomb was dropped. Seven years
later she developed leukaemia and was taken into hospital. She had
read that folding paper cranes brings good luck and she believed that
if she could fold 1000 cranes she would survive. Sadly, she didn't
get her wish and her death sparked a demand for a memorial for all of
the children affected by the bomb to be built. In the museum you can
see the cranes that she folded. They are absolutely minuscule and it
is difficult to imagine how she folded them. Apparently she used a
pin to fold them as they got smaller and smaller because she believed
that the more intricate they were, the more chance she would have
that her wish would come true.
I left the museum quite
depressed, and am still a little depressed typing this. However, it
gave us some perspective on little things that we had been arguing
about the day before and really brought it home to us just what a
tragedy the dropping of the bomb over Hiroshima was. You can't
appreciate until you see it, just how many lives it affected in so
many ways; not just on the day it was dropped, but years later, with
people living the rest of their lives in constant fear of what
effects the radiation would have on them. I would say that if you
visit Japan, you should definitely try to get down to Hiroshima and
learn about this important part of modern history.
We didn't spend all of
our time in Hirsohima visiting monuments related to the A-Bomb.
Hiroshima is also famous for a shrine at Miraynma that stands in the
ocean. It is one of the most famous views in Japan. We took a ferry
over to go and see it, and once again there were hundreds of deer
scattered about. Unfortunately, we got there at low tide so most of
the shrine was not submerged in the sea but had tourists walking
underneath it, pushing money into the cracks. Nevertheless, it was
still a sight to behold and it was set amongst the stunning backdrop
of mountains and sea. I said to Jemma that I thought the landscape
was more impressive than similar landscapes that we had paid a lot of
money to see in New Zealand. We didn't pay any money in Japan to see
Miraynma.
At night, we went on a
hunt for a restaurant that had been recommended in the guide book
that Jemma desperately wanted to try. It served Hiroshima's
speciality dish, Okonamia, Okonamia are similar to pancakes, and at
the restaurant we went to, they make them infront of you on a hot
plate. They fill them with beansprouts, noodles and fish and then
crack an egg on top. For the final touch, they pour a generous
helping of special sauce.
Unfortunately for me, I liked everything but
the sauce and the green nori powder they sprinkle inside them, which
meant I just had to pick out the noodles and Jemma had to eat the
rest. It was still a great experience though to eat in such a
traditional eatery and have the food made in front of you (even if
the woman who made them did have a cold and kept wiping her nose with
her hand!).
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