Friday, 6 April 2012

Yokohama/ Tokyo – Japanese house parties and drunken karaoke


Japanese house party
We have just had probably the best 48 hours of our whole trip and to round it off I am typing this sat in my little capsule in our wonderful capsule hostel in Tokyo.
The fun started on Saturday night, when, after a long day travelling back to Tokyo from the Alps, we were met at the train station by our lovely friend Yoshie whom we met in New Zealand. She came to collect us to take us back to her sister's flat in Yokohama (just outside of Tokyo), where we were to spend the night. We got to the flat and were met at the door by a group of young, welcoming Japanese people (Yoshie's friends and family) who were all smiling and eager to meet us. As we walked through the door and took our shoes off, they were all taking photos of us and each one shook our hand in turn and said hello in English. Most of don't speak English, so practising with us that night was a big deal for them. We went into the lounge, where they had prepared a feast for us, with a low table and mats on the floor to sit on. It was really cute. Everything we had told Yoshie in NZ, she had remembered and they had tailored the meal exactly to our tastes. They had made pasta bake with two little flags in it (Japan and UK), a ginger pork dish, a cold pasta dish, and sushi (with no raw fish, because Yoshie had remembered that we weren't keen on 'law fish').  

Pasta bake
It was overwhelming. They kept the alcohol flowing all night (champagne, wine and beer) and they were the friendliest people I have ever met. We brought them a little present (as we were advised this is the custom in Japan). We gave them some cherry blossom sweets from Kyoto and they gave me a box of chocolates (Yoshie had remembered that I am chocolate mad) and they gave Jemma (or German, as they thought her name was) a Japanese fan. They were all so friendly and eager to practise their English. We felt really at ease because everybody was so laid back and friendly. I think Jemma had built it up a little in her head and was worried she might commit some cultural faux pas, but they were all so young and easy going, we really had nothing to worry about. We chatted and laughed the whole night, with new dishes and drinks being brought out all the time and at one point, they even brought out the ingredients for making sushi and let us have a go at making our own. It was a really brilliant night and we were stuffed by the end of it. At the end of the night, Yoshie's sister ran me an onsen, and I committed the only cultural error of the night (as far as we know), by having a bath in it and washing my hair, when it was actually meant to be shared by the whole house. We all laughed about it in the end, but I can just remember starting to wash my hair with shampoo in the bath and then remembering something I had read in the lonely planet about Japanese families having onsens and that you should never pull the plug. What I should have done was had a shower first and then got in the onsen, and then everyone else would have done the same. I think this is the biggest cultural difference between the UK and Japan! Jemma and I slept with Yoshie in the spare room on a traditional Tatami Japanese floor and some of the other friends also stayed the night.
The next day, we got up, had some hot chocolate/ tea and then they took us out to see Yokohama and to have sushi for brunch. They took us to the best sushi bar I have ever been to – it was so cheap and the conveyor belt was huge! I tried all kinds of sushi, including raw squid, which nearly made me sick, but I eventually managed to swallow it. Jemma was not so successful. 

Yokohama harbour


At the sushi restaurant
After brunch, we took a sightseeing boat across Yokohama harbour and Yoshie's brother-in-law kindly paid. We walked all around the harbour, looking at the big cruise ships that were docked there and watching the entertainment. It was like a much bigger version of Cardiff bay! We then stopped at a little park for coffee and took the train back to Yoshie's sister's flat, where we said our farewells, before heading back to Tokyo to meet our friends from Kyoto for a night out.

It took us about an hour to get across Tokyo to the hostel that we had booked on hostelworld. We booked it because it was surprisingly cheap for Tokyo, and I can now confirm, that you definitely get what you paid for. As soon as we saw it, I was doubtful. Not only was it a hefty train ride from the centre of Tokyo, but it also looked like a little shack from the outside. We were in such a rush to dump our bags and check-in before meeting our friends Emily and Sandra, that luckily I didn't have time to take it all in properly. The bedroom was the biggest disgrace of a bedroom I have ever seen in my life. It has to be seen to be believed! I would not put my dog in there! Luckily we had only booked for one night and I had visions of us coming in, numbed enough by alcohol not to be bothered by it, but my god, it was not fit for human living. I am sure there must be a law against squashing that many people into such a small space. The bunks were pushed so close together, you had to turn sideways to walk between them. There was no space for bags, and if you were unlucky enough to be on the 3rd tier, you had to climb over 2 peoples heads (no ladders to get in). It was pure squalor and I am horrified that it has such high ratings on hostelworld. I think the owner must have dodgy dealings going on somewhere because there is not one single bad review on hostelworld! Suspiciously, it is also not listed on Trip advisor, which should cause some alarm bells to ring, but as we were literally just dropping our bags then racing out to see our friends, I didn't have time to think too much about it.

Worst hostel ever

We dropped our bags in the 'luggage room' (cupboard) and raced out to meet Emily and Sandra at an agreed place. The four of us then went to the best restaurant I have ever been to! An all you-can-drink Izakaya! The deal is, you sit at the table, and have a little computer screen, where you can order an unlimited number of drinks (any drink you want – alcohol, soft drink, milk shakes... you name it). You have the table for 3 hours and during this time, everyone also has to order and least two items of food off the menu. For this, you pay about £20! Incredible value! If this existed in the UK, it would go out of business on opening night, but as the Japanese can't drink much, these fantastic establishments exist all over Tokyo. We ordered a load of dishes to share: pizza, chips. Yakitori (chicken on skewers) etc. And we drank till we were merry. As Jemma put it, she drank a whiskey drink, she drank a lager drink, she drank a cider drink, she drank a vodka drink. I think she also drank every other drink on the menu, including to tropical Japanese varieties. I just stuck to wine and cocktails. 
At the Izakaya
By the end, we were very merry, and left the restaurant to go into the games arcade next door, where we played on Table Flip. A computer game, where the only aim is to flip a table in a restaurant so that the drinks go all over everybody! We then played some drumming games, and had our photos taken in one of those booths that Japanese girls love where you can add fake eyelashes and glasses etc to yourself. It was the most amazing fun ever. By this point, Jemma and Emily were very drunk and were keen on catching the last train back to the student area where Emily and Sandra live, to spend a couple more hours in a karaoke booth, and then we could crash for a few hours at theirs before catching an early train back to our hostel to check out. We found the karaoke booth, and again, it was pay a sum (~£22) and drink all you like for 2 hours whilst singing karaoke in the booth. It was one of the best nights out I have ever had in my life and I am so glad we got to experience a real Japanese karaoke booth. It really is a fun way to spend a night. After two hours of singing (or squawking), I wanted to carry on, but they were all tired, so we stumbled back to the student halls, where I slept on a mat on Sandra's floor and Jemma slept on Emily's floor. It was about 3am by the time we went to sleep. 
Photobooth fun



Karaoke
At 8am, we had to leave to catch a number of different trains back to our hostel. This was not the easiest of tasks on a hangover, in fact, if you knew what the Tokyo subway was like, you would probably find it like something out of a comedy sketch. 2 hours later(!) we finally got to the horrible hostel, where we scooped up our bags from where we had left them, used the toilet facilities, and then made a sharp exit. Another 2 hours later, we were at our new hostel, where we were told that check-in was not until 4pm. So we went to Burger king and then slept in the lounge, before checking into our cosy little, clean capsule dorm (same company as the excellent hostel we stayed in in Kyoto). What a fantastic 48 hours.  

New cool capsule hostel in Tokyo


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